3/30/09

Go Visit Mexico to Understand

"While we bear responsibility for our problems, the caricature of Mexico being propagated in the United States only increases the despair on both sides of the Rio Grande. It is also profoundly hypocritical. America is the world’s largest market for illegal narcotics. The United States is the source for the majority of the guns used in Mexico’s drug cartel war, according to law enforcement officials on both sides of the border...." Read the NY Times Article - The Mexican Evolution

3/28/09

First Bite

That stupid coffeeshop post was up for long enough.  I finally conclude this segment with this picture of Tex and I in front of a Van Gogh print.  The Netherlands is a beautiful country and Amsterdam is an international beehive to which I will return.  It was a full, restful, and refreshing Spring Break 09.

3/24/09

Coffee Shops

I didn't spend much time in these establishments - contrary to what everyone probably assumed when I said I would be visiting Amsterdam. The legal-illegal drugs were not a part of my decision to visit (Truthfully, the factors were the $450 US roundtrip flight and the dates of our Spring Break).  Regardless, I came, I saw, I experienced Amsterdam.  The insides of these places are extremely fascinating initially.  I relate it to how its fascinating to see topless sunbathers on foreign beaches. But, as with the sunbathers, the awe wears off.  The availability of the drugs becomes commonplace and even after just a few days the shock value is gone.  The business is regulated and contained.  Amsterdam is not crumbling, burning, and turning to salt because people can smoke as they please.  I guess that is the lasting impression I have.  It is part of a culture, it is part of the uniqueness of Amsterdam, and it is not destructive. Maybe, as the Mexican border wars rage, it would do lawmakers well to take a field trip to Amsterdam.  

Red Light District

For my final posts I wanted to say a few words about the more widely known attractions in Amsterdam.  First - the Red Light District.  On the first night we found ourselves walking the dimly lit streets that make up the few blocks of carnal pleasure.  I don't think I had very many expectations, but I did assume we would need to be extra cautious in a place where western morals are compromised. I was flat wrong.  The body shopping is done under complete regulation.  It felt like an art museum with each unique masterpiece framed and illuminated in an intoxicating red glow.  The red lights attract you like a bug to a fluorescent bulb. There are row after row of large windowed doors enclosing body commodities from all around the world.  Big and small, light and dark, old and young - your fantasy is as attainable as the 50 euros in your jeans.  For a person who holds the opposite sex as the cornerstone of life and happiness this would seem to be the promised land. Yet, there is something unsettling about putting a price on something which you enjoy. It may be analogous to paying for your straight A's, or fixing a sporting event to be victorious, or paying your best friend for their company.  It simply isn't the same and what is loved is tarnished.  Due to these instinctive conclusions, I simply walked the Red Light District (A few times of course...) and enjoyed it as a spectacle deserving of world infamy.

3/22/09

The Girl With A Pearl Earring

While eating that amazing lunch in Delft our company mentioned that there was a famous painting worth seeing - the "Girl With A Pearl Earring." I haven't read the book or seen the movie but I knew I couldn't leave The Netherlands without critiquing the work for myself.  

The Vermeer House is where the famous Dutch painter used to live.  We began the tour in the downstairs gallery which is filled with prints of most of Vermeer's works.  Each painting had a tag with analytical points of which to be aware.  I find viewing paintings is much more fun when I can first gather my own interpretation and then immediately get another perspective.  It kind of lets me gauge how contrived/farfetched my ideas might be.

Eager to get out of the museum we moved to the 2nd floor - still no girl with a pearl.  The 3rd and final floor was full of lame landscape photography. Where was the painting? We inquired at the front desk and were pissed when informed that the painting is actually in Den Haag - back where we had partied the night before.  Hungry, with a slightly annoying headache, I left that museum feeling tricked.  

Upon returning to Amsterdam we ate another feast in the Leidisplein.  Our drinks at the bar were jameson and jack on the rocks - Appetizers included snails in sauce and carpaccio - the main course was Dutch beefsteak and fried clams. - and The Stoop and Stoop restaurant was candlelit and had smooth hip-hop for a soundtrack.  The eats are wonderful here.

This morning I made the decision to get to that painting.  It felt like a quest after reading all the interesting notes about the artist at his old home.  It was such a tease to be built up to see something the painting and then not actually view it. So, I hopped an early train, went back out to Den Haag, and fumbled my way to the Mauritshuis. The museum was well worth it.  There were Rembrandts, many still-life works, and thankfully "The Girl With a Pearl Earring." I hate falling in love with a work that everyone else adores.  It irks me like I am sharing a girlfriend. It implies about as much contemplation as that of someone who claims Michael Jordan as their favorite basketball player.  Dare I say it can be as annoying as someone who cheers for the Red Sox. But, I admit, I might be in love with the girl in the painting.  Not in love in the Red Light District sense of the word but more enamored with the beauty of its simplicity.  The earring is cool and the lighting, for which Vermeer is praised, is obviously the stylistic accomplishment, but I think it is the black background that sets the painting apart.  Beauty contrasted against a black backdrop places all the focus on, well, the beauty.  Vermeer leaves the viewer with no other choice then to look in the eye of the mysterious girl.  Guess I will have to read the book to find out who she is fictionally.

A stroll through Den Haag, a final afternoon stroll through crazy Amsterdam on Sunday, and I now find myself doing law homework.  Tomorrow is the flight back.  I will write about the Red Light District, the coffeeshops, and my impressions of the Netherlands after I submit this brief.

I don't want to leave.

Delft and 2nd Chances

On our trip through Panama last summer, my cousin Max (Tex’s brother) and I became friends with two Dutch girls in Bocas Del Toro.  The four of us were the only tourists on a beach tour.  We reconnected later on in the night and I ruined the entire situation by drinking Abuelo rum out of the bottle (see very bottom of post).  I was certain that we would never see Marielle and Jenny ever again. Also, Max has never let me forget the incident.  He has used it against me at least bi-monthly.

Thanks to facebook, and probably some pity, we remained in contact.  The two girls offered to take us out in Holland and so we maneuvered ourselves from a tram, to a 9:30 pm train out to the town of Den Haag, and then on to another tram to the Grote Markt. 

Dressed in jeans and cowboy boots (brown ostrich and dark brown alligator) we were ready for a full night.  The square was packed with students and people recently unchained to the weekend.  Bars line the sides of the plaza with lounge chairs and tables filling the middle area.  We met the girls at bar Zeta and proceeded to dance the night away.

It felt like drinking among New Yorkers in a New Orleans bar.  Long overcoats, students and young professionals, perfectly cropped hair, and beautiful looking people.  The buildings and architecture were old and the setting set by lamp lights. The cold of the night was less bothersome the more we danced and drank.  We finished the evening by moving to a small trance nightclub and then we succumbed to exhaustion. (The pic is of Grote Markt during the day).

The Mercedez Taxi took us all back to the girls’ town of Delft. You know those cameras in America on the stoplights that catch you running the red lights??? They have those here too, but on the freeway - to get you if you go over the speed limit!

The next morning I awoke to the sun pouring in through the large square window in the living room.  I looked out to the canal that cut through the street and I watched rowers push by and the town come to life.  Everyone was still asleep, so I took the opportunity to do some legal research on one of the macbooks in the living room.  My limited internet has been killing me, so I found some much needed sources for my assignment and emailed them to myself. Someone reading has to appreciate the insanity of this.

The town of Delft is gorgeous.  We walked through the cobbled stone streets, ate the famous local candy and krokkets, shopped, and spent the late morning eating lunch under the sun in the center of town.  Although the trip is not finished for another day, I feel as if this was the climax to our trip.  We were in a foreign land, with perfect weather, eating delicious foods, with the best of company, and had great conversation.

(Note: We have no pictures of the beauty of Delft because I left the Nikon 300D at home. I didn’t want to risk the life of the camera at the club. However, I am probably headed back there today to capture some shots.)

We hugged and kissed three times goodbye.  It is incredible to have met such genuine people a year ago and then reunite across the world.  Although it just dawned on me, I got a second chance today. It feels good to have left a better impression than the one I left on the last occasion in Panama.  Unfortunately, we had to split ways, and Tex and I found ourselves at the Vermeer Museum.  This is a good place to stop for now. I will write of how the Vermeer Museum inspired the next day’s events.

Anne Frank House

Mentally braving the 35 degree morning weather, I began another day with a morning run.  It is noteworthy in that the run took place in Vondel Park. Although the trees are currently barren, even in their naked state their height and age provided a beautiful running environment.  Morning commuters whizzed by on bikes and it was nice to find myself jogging alongside local runners.  Being able to see my breath in the morning cold is still indicative of a good workout.

I had bagels (from local Bagels & Beans), coffee, and brief writing for breakfast. Of course, not being used to the European portions, I was hungry again in a few hours.  Fresh raw Hering satisfied my hunger.  Between bread, onion, and pickles the cold fish was delicious.  Tex didn’t care for it, but I made sure I didn’t leave any to the seagulls prowling overhead.

I forgot to mention that on Thursday we intended to go to the Anne Frank House.  Yeah, that didn’t happen.  Therefore we made it our goal of the day to complete that absolutely necessary attraction. Truthfully, I have always had a vendetta of sorts against the Diary of Anne Frank.  In school we were assigned to read the book at, in my opinion, an inappropriately young age.  I disliked it upon first read and have only slowly come to realize that the power is in its context. Standing in the room where the Frank family went into hiding I was filled with emotion for many reasons: The way the diary was written, the circumstances, and the power that a simple act has had on generations of people.   The flash of the past was sobering and the visit fulfilled the moment of silence for the trip.   We absorbed the lessons and then stepped back into our own circumstances. (The house is pictured above)

We spent the afternoon taking pictures and going in and out of stores. I made contact with some Dutch friends of mine earlier in the day and our plan was to meet them later on.  Because Friday night is more closely tied to our Saturday experience I will write about my reunion with Marielle and Jenny in the next post.

3/20/09

Simple Thursday


After a full Wednesday, Tex and I had what I would call a half-full Thursday. Basically, we let the variables dictate. I got up early to both write and eat a fried egg breakfast at a local cafe. I struck up a conversation with a fellow Dutch studier and she mentioned that she had looked into attending the University of Texas at Austin to study in their Linguistics program. I was proud the school name has reached across the ocean. I am always surprised at how foreigners know the names of many of the states that make up the United States of America. I think I could name very few of the states of any other country.

We switched hotels and are now staying at the NH Amsterdam Centre - nicer, and one I would recommend to any visitor for the price, service, and location. Back in the heart of the Leidisplein, we were eager to follow up our previous productive day with another. It was productive, just not as I had hoped.
Tex wanted to say goodbye to his friend from our old hostel before she left back home to Beijing. I waited in a local diner and used the ample time to brief and people watch. One large mug Heinekin led to another and then the laptop went closed for the day.

I have no idea where the rest of the afternoon went. The Texas gentleman that we sometimes are, we helped Tex's new friends get to the Central Station to catch their train. Somehow I ended up toting a heavy bag full of newly purchased clothes across Amsterdam. Following that ruckus we entered a coffeeshop. I will write about the Amsterdam coffee shops and the red light district in my final two posts. For now, it is enough to say we took a great nap and finished the strange Thursday with the 2nd most incredible meal of my life.

We dined on Greek food at a restaurant called Mykonos. The Leidesplein - a busy tourist plaza full with bars and restaurants - is beautiful at nighttime. Adding to the beauty is the fact that there is a wide selection of foods from which to choose. We settled on Greek and were not dissapointed. Fried Feta cheese and a seafood sampler kicked us off in the right direction. The lamb was tender and crumbled in your mouth. Tex washed it down with style with a glassy of sharry and I sat back in exhaustion. It is now established: The food in Amsterdam is awesome.

We did a quick stroll around the city, over the canals and under the lamps that illuminate the still nights. And again, we made it a point to walk through the red lights that cast their finishing glow over the available women.

That was how it went, with everything new in between. Last night (Friday) was a great time. I am writing from the city of The Hague as everyone is still asleep. I will write of the experience sometime later today.

Starry Day

It has been rather unfortunate that the wireless internet access here is either scarce, slow, or expensive. It has interrupted my ability to blog and brief write. As it is already(!) Friday, I write to redeem myself.

Contrary to the reputation, my experience in Amsterdam thus far has been an incredibly relaxing one. Going forward in this post I offer details on particular events/spectacles, but emphasize that it has been the non-events that have been my favorite aspects: The cafes, the cuisine, the architecture, the morning runs, the languages, the diverse faces, the cleanliness, the style, the bikes, the crisp air, and the peeking sun. Intermittently, we saw those things we were supposed to see as well. Like…

The Van Gogh Museum. Now saavy with the tram lines that criss-cross, what seems to be, just about every street, Tex and I jumped on one toward the museum district. Even with labor intensive educational foundation I knew nothing about the life of Van Gogh – and my cousin knew everything. Hell, I didn’t even know the story about him cutting his own ear. An artist in his own rite, Tex thoroughly enjoyed the museum, as did I. Van Gogh’s 2nd Starry Night was naturally a satisfying sight but I was just as impressed with his other night set paintings. Unbeknownst to me before, he was enamored with the concept of night. It felt good to get an injection of information devoid of any connection to law (although I’m sure an argument could be made somehow).

Keeping with the “Starry” theme we walked over to the old Heineken Brewery for a tour of the grounds (Heineken’s logo involves a red star). We learned the rather simple process for brewing beer. We walked the once bustling brick brewery up-and-down until getting to the best part – the one free beer. I say this because the tour is lacking in many respects, but c’mon it’s about beer. The final part, the bar inside, was incredible. While sipping an Extra Cold Heineken you are surrounded by flat-screen tvs that create one unified wrap around image (HD) depicting different cities around the world. It felt like we were drinking in Rio De Janeiro, St. Petersburg, and New York. Finally, we got lost.

I pursue being lost. I have written about this on past trips. I find such a satisfaction in not knowing exactly where I am, knowing I need to figure out how to get back to comfort. We stumbled right into a street market. I ate some delicious chicken and Tex ate two bags of a variety of grapes. Cheeses, flowers, clothes, pickles, chocolate, fish, and music were all being vended. And just in case the red light district is not enough, one can purchase chocolate in the form of male and female reproductive parts.

Such was our Wednesday. I finished it off with an incredible Indonesian meal and some more brief writing.

3/17/09

Running Around


At 6:30am this morning I introduced myself to the streets and canals of Amsterdam central.  In exchange, I introduced the few early rising Dutch to American running tights.  The admitted jet leg from the day before was weighing on my conscience and on my leg muscles.  I was disappointed I didn't get to start the trip with the bang of efficiency that would be characteristic of an experienced traveller.  However, I got my European escape underway by running out of the hostel door and around town.  The canals weave in a web-like fashion, with all roads leading to the city center.  In the fresh morning 40 degree weather I was successful in my reconnaissance mission.  I found the shopping, the museums, and the cafes with wireless internet. On the return route I was amid the stares of the perplexed Dutch; I am sure I have started a new running apparel trend.
The Hostel provided breakfast consisted of a a hard-boiled egg, bread, two slices of cheese, and some jam.  My Texan stomach threw a tantrum at the food - or lack thereof.  As is usually the case when I complain, it turned out to be an excellent experience.  I was satisfied and felt noticeably healthier than when I devour two ham, egg and cheese breakfast tacos before my first morning class.  The breakfast was topped off by making new friends with the group of friends from China at the next table.
Following breakfast, we moved to the new sleeping accommodations - a modern hotel sponsored by my uncle-at-law. We hailed a Mercedez-Benz taxi and zoomed about 10 minutes away to another canal enclosed section.

Tex slept. I walked and studied.  I give myself a few hours to walk and sight-see and then snap myself back into student mode, sit at a cafe, and read case law print-outs.  Sanity and pleasure is maintained through this dueling process. Because its boring, I only offer that I plan to finish the bulk of the work tomorrow.
I am certain most of the highlights of the day are anything but riveting to the reader.  I adorned my long coat and entered and exited shops.  I basked in the sun as I squinted down the light reflecting canals.  I consumed fresh sandwiches and indulged in a Rice Table sampler order at a local Indonesian Restaurant.  I had cappuccino, admired the fashion sense, looked both ways to cross the street (maybe they are called flying dutchman because of the speed at which they ride bikes??), and coveted the multiplicity of languages I overheard. My favorite castle that serves coffee so far is pictured above.

Now, I sit in the hotel lobby writing away on my brief.  The trip is now on the upswing.  My decisions will gravitate from responsibly constrained toward self-indulgent and the resulting blog posts will move from simple to complex. 

Netherlands Arrival


Tex and I have arrived in Amsterdam.  The flight was an easy 9 hours; a long distance trip on a plane is peanuts compared to the overland travel of Latin America.  The cross Atlantic planes are more spacious and include minor additional amenities, the best of which is a screen displaying your current position and time remaining until landing. A note to my law school friends - I read all about posthumous conception on the flight. Yes, I am working on my brief while here. 

We hit ground at 6am Amsterdam time (12am U.S.).  Tired yet adrenaline filled we caught a train from the airport into Amsterdam Central.  We dodged the near silent fast-moving trains and bike riding dutch, barely making it across the street in our first attempt.  The city was just waking up and coming to life - it was almost as if everyone was coming out to welcome us to Europe.

Unfortunately, we did not have much luck initially.  My (useless) world blackberry does not get service here, I hadn't received an email regarding our sleeping accommodations, and we had trouble working the ATMS to even get Euros.  After some lugging of our luggage up and down the cobbled streets I decided we should just enter the first available hostel.

After some quick touring of the area I caught up on some much needed sleep.  With the cool dutch air flowing through my open window on the fourth floor I had a restful respite.

We kept it simple the first night (or at least I did).  We walked the streets acquainting ourselves with the infamous end of Amsterdam.  We walked by coffee shops, the red light district, and up and down the length of the canals.  As I become more familiar with these spots I will write more.

3/1/09

Why Not? Amsterdam

That Austin morning wasn't any different than any other.  The sun shone, Tex strummed the electric guitar with an acoustic flair, and I was still damp from the sweat of a recent run around Town Lake.  Relaxing. Vibing. Procrastinating casebook reading. Eventually the Macbooks emerged as is typical. After my systematic Gmail - Facebook - Nytimes procedure I checked Continental.com to further prolong the inevitable schoolwork.  I stumbled upon a cheap flight, on the perfect dates, and the details are to be worked out later.  Sometimes you have to just ask yourself "why not?"  Although one side of me attempts to answer that question, the other side prevents it from taking complete form.  As a a result, Tex and I will be flying to AMSTERDAM over Spring Break for 7 days of any and all the city has to offer.  Posts are forthcoming.