I've been on few trips I would call vacation. I travel for experience, for an injection of emotion, for a taste of freedom. This however is vacation at it's best. It was simple. Devoid of distraction or planning. An umbrella. A beach. A book. A love. Greece was vacation.
Our cheapest accommodations in Greece were the best ones. Look at this place! The buffet was even better than the ambience. The buffet breakfast and dinner made us feel like royalty. Writing this makes my mouth water and seeing the pool makes me yearn for my book and some sun.
If everyone is going left, go right. If they take the freeways then take the streets. If they all go to Mykonos and Santorini then go to KOS! The best island of them all was the one nobody told us to go to. The less frequented by the party crowd and certainly more local. This was the water we sought. This was the seclusion we craved. This was the perfect balance of getaway and culture that makes a place more preferable than others. Our last stop in Greece was together our favorite.
I only had one expectation for Santorini and that was white buildings with blue coated roofs. They were aplenty and I was pleased. It was a calm stint overall. It was a good place to reflect. A place to think. The grandeur created a celestial environment that was as much calming as disturbing. Islands are a scary place. You are stuck. You are stuck with all that is beautiful and all that is not. In a place so open one can feel trapped. A few days and nights was enough and I was on to the next one.
In Venice you ride a Gondola. In Central Park a carriage. In Egypt a Camel. In Santorini one must ride a Donkey. We made the precarious ascent astride these wannabe horses. With a mind and agenda of their own one as at the Donkey's whim. We disembarked safely at the top but not without a strong sense of relief.
Greece didn't spend too much time coming up with names for their beaches. The aptly named Red Beach was red. They should have named it Hades though because it was hot as hell. Beads of sweat dripped and we had to dip in the water just about every five minutes. It was dangerously hot so we spent as much time as possible to feel like we could claim a visit and then we were out of there.
Days were spent wandering the town, or on the beach, or in a cafe sipping tea. Greece is legendary for good reason. I'd fight a war over this place.
A heavenly glow rests over the entire cove. The sun reflects over the slightly textured water which itself only moves slightly, just enough to remind the viewer they are still alive. Never before have I seen islands from this vantage point. I was at peace but also aware of the violent past that formed these natural wonders. I daydreamed the explosion that would cause these masses of earth. Chaos is always present among the calm.
This town is replete with bars, restaurants, souvenir shops, clothing boutiques, and local high-end hotels. One winds through the narrow walkways, up and down stairs, and always near an edge. It is kind of like Venice, Italy but on the opposite extreme of the sea level. It is a tourist town but classy and with way more character.
Set high among the cliffs and reigning over the surrounding islands is the main town of Santorini Island. The height is what makes this place unique. Upon arrival we had to ascend a series of steep roads criss-crossing our way gradually up the mountainside. It is well worth the fear because what appears to be snow from afar is actually a cluster of white buildings making up one of the prettiest places in the world.
The view from our table at dinner during the last evening of our stay in Mykonos. The wind is one of the most notable residents of the town. It gives a tangible quality to the spirit of the town while at the same time making it difficult to eat outside. It was one of the most gorgeous evenings I have ever experienced.
Not only does it melt in your mouth but it can be eaten for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
There were lots of beautiful pieces of mass produced art depicting the buildings of Mykonos.
From pictures I assumed that buildings in Mykonos were only outlined in blue. Turns out multiple colors are used with the distinct architecture.
I reached the land of the white washed walls and colored accents. Mykonos town is more quaint than I expected as it was refreshingly untainted by commercial resorts. It was devoid of the necessaries that are incorporated into most commercial areas - lamp light, advertising, signage etc. As a result a visitor feels that they are really on an island and away from it all. The pictures speak volumes. Mykonos has a party town reputation but our experience there was on the calm side.
After a few days in Athens we were off to the islands to relax in paradise. We rode these massive ferries from beautiful to beautiful beach.
When visiting a historical site I tend to don some burnt orange. Not only because it makes for a good picture but it never fails that some tourist will notice it and we can take pictures for one another.
High atop the Akropolis sits the Parthenon. From this point one has a 360 degree view of Athens. This is where civilization began and it is incredible that the structure has stood the test of time.
One of the most interesting places to visit while traveling are the local markets. The vendors yell out prices to provide a soundtrack to the spectacle. Sandals are a bad choice too as random fluids fly from hoses and food displays.
The shy fried feta that is hiding under the sausage in this picture is hands-down my favorite food.
Onto a lighter subject, the food in Greece is unbelievable. You can't open your mouth without something tasty finding it's way in. Figure out your favorite food and the country of it's origin. Go visit that country. Every single meal will be an experience. That's how it was for me while indulging in the tzatziki, fried feta, lamb, olives, and red wine. Pictured is a real greek salad - minus the lettuce that is typical of the American derivative.
It was one of those moments that sends a bolt of lightning into your soul. The kind of moment that let's you know that life is fragile and that desperation leads alternative methods. I wanted a picture and I knew the precarious situation before me. Immediately outside what seemed to be an abandoned university (likely temporarily closed for summer) were men of all walks of life that were unified by their obvious anger and apparent unrest. Some appeared as a homeless person would. Others as hippies of America's 60's. And still others seemed as the average citizen would who had taken up a picket for a cause. In combination, they were a mob. A mob that would likely not be hospitable to an outsider. I am not Greek. Neither was she. The lady, with a lighter complexion and "I am a tourist" written all over her, wanted to capture the same picture I did. So, we both, two distinct looking persons, walked into the promenade and voluntarily surrounded ourselves with a wall of disturbed people and whipped out our cameras. I knew, although I don't think she did, that this could go one of two ways. We get the shot and leave quietly, or all hell breaks loose. Well, not all hell was unleashed. Just as the shutter on my camera closed a few guys rushed us and a chorus of others began yelling. I threw my camera in my bag immediately and began to retreat to the main street. Only one of the pursuers decided to actually prevent us from taking home the picture to our respective countries. The pissed off guy decided he would stop her by physical force if he must. He ran up to her, there was a struggle, and he ripped her camera from her grasp and ran. I stopped my retreat and was about to enter into the fray when the other protestors stopped the jacker and retrieved the camera for the female tourist. They escorted her away from it all and I escorted myself the hell out of there too. Our recession in America has been bad, and in Greece it has been worse. The protestors and incivility I witnessed are a result. With my heart in my throat, hands fisted, and camera in bag I escaped. The defacement of the statue expresses the frustration of the citizens of Athens. I felt and witnessed it first hand.
I'm not sure where the lines are drawn separating art from real life, in this picture, literally and figuratively.
After this recession new models are wanted in Greece. Believe me the dissatisfaction of the masses from near financial collapse is evident.
The childhood favorite Paddington Bear has a message for passersby: "Immigration is not a crime."
The graffiti artist responsible for the figure on the right has placed his handiwork all over the city. I would walk a new area of town and female with curly hair would be sprayed in a new scene on some public/private property.
As of now, I don't know who this is but I don't want to end up on a wall in a similar fashion.
Graffiti of all genres is all over the city of the Athens. This blog is going to continue by taking readers on a tour of some of it's best. It is political, humorous, and even disturbing. The people bring the buildings of the city to life through an explosion of expression that is evident in the finished works. Please enjoy as much as I did.
The guards at this government building did a high step routine for the crowd. The ten minute spectacle involves the replacement of two harassed guards with a brand new set for tourists' sadistic pleasure. These guys stand completely still and unabashed as the guards at Buckingham Palace. Dopey tourists make faces and do those jump pictures and all. The high step routine actually seemed normal after watching everyone else interact with them.
Greece was on my top 5. It was a country that I had read about in philosophy books and in the recent news of the countries hardest hit by the economic recession. I had high expectations - some of which were met and others which were slightly unattained. This is a must see/visit. Some conclusions: visit the islands less visited, eat everything, and don't believe anyone if they tell you to only spend one day in Athens.
This picture encapsulates our experience in Croatia - extreme relaxation. Pina coladas were sipped slowly here giving over baked skin a necessary reprieve.
These rocks of unknown origin are mixed in with the sand giving off an emerald like sparkle to the earth.
When I find myself at a place of peace while traveling I make a mental note. I stop. I think. I try and cherish the moment and then lock it away in the attic of my mind. In the future, during a long night at the office, I will stop writing, take a second, and try to place myself back in that peaceful moment. The experience of Banje beach in Dubrovnik has been stored away.
We did the cultural stuff for 2 weeks. We got lost in museums, peered intently at paintings, pontificated in cafes, and gazed into the vaulted ceilings of cathedrals. Finally, we found ourselves in paradise and we took full advantage. I have nothing of cultural significance to write about because we didn't see or visit anything along those lines. Mother nature did all the work on this portion of the trip.
From Split we ferried to the island of Havar where I passed the day laying on rocks and intermittently jumping into the clear waters. The sun, yachts, bottled water, and Nabokov's Lolita as my sole companions. I was in good company.
