Managua, Nicaragua

My nature impels me to turn this post into something more like a jounal entry than a blog post. I will attempt to remain more anecdotal than emotional and this will be long- maybe grab a cup of coffee before you start (or even wikipedia SANDINISTAS).

We exited the hostel in Granada early to grab a mini-bus through the rain toward Managua, Nicaragua. Many travellers had already warned us of the city´s reputation. The capital´s rough aspects deter many tourists from visiting entirely. We were not to be deflected, but I would learn by experience how dangerous the city really can be.

Managua had little to see for the tourist beyond the usual cathedrals and historical monuments. Therefore we hoped to watch a few American movies at the local Cinemark while in the big city. Over breakfast I picked up the local newspaper to find the showtimes for the new Batman. My eyes scanned diligently across the pages until they paused upon an article of interest. I deciphered the conjugations of the journalistic Spanish and i read that the very day was the anniversary celebration of 29 years since the revolution of the Sandinistas (FSLN) in Nicaragua. My mind whizzed and my heart beated a little faster. Presidents Hugo Chavez (Venezuela), Manuel Zelaya (Honduras), Fernando Lugo (Paraguay), Daniel Ortega (Nicaragua), and Vice-President Esteban Lazo (Cuba) were to speak in commemoration of the historic day. I hadn´t read the paper once since my arrival, yet there I was being informed of the opportunity to see some of the prominent and influential leaders of my lifetime speak that day. I would have been watching movies instead. Some things are just meant to be.

I adorned my revolutionary garb; In actuality, it consisted of a pice of green cloth I purchased from an Army surplus store. We then walked to the plaza where the rally was to take place.

Before the rallywe had to accomplish another one of our goals for the trip; We wanted to see the gym of the Nicaraguan boxing legend Alexis Arguello (Max´s full name is Maximiliano Alexis Garcia). We caught a cab there and persuaded the generous security guard to let us fans take pictures. It was a historic moment for the Garcia family as that fighter in particular meant so much to our parents while they were growing up. Now, back to the rally.

Again, it is difficult to sufficiently convey the kinds of emotions I was feeling so I will solely present a few observations and opinions that I think are pertinent and interesting to the reader.

The capitalization of commmunism is always humorous due to it´s irony. Vendors lined an entire avenue leading up to the plaza selling food, drink, revolutionary tees, pins and bandanas. If a Cordoba could be made off of the socialist message then a booth was set up to take full advantage. Shouldn´t the Che shirts have been given away???

Okay, I can´t claim to have understood every word of the Spanish spoken but I understood a great portion. Revolutionary Speech 101 would have a rather short section on content. Invoke the names of past revolutionaries, pay homage to curent leaders who share your ideologies, recognize the natural wonders of the country as symbols of stability, praise the masses, and throw in a few ¨America is an empire¨ lines. The crowd will love you. Like bread to the Romans of the colisseum, the people will eat it up. At least they can eat words.

I´ll never watch a speech on CNN the same way again. Just days before in Rivas I had watched Hugo Chavez deliver a speech to an enormous crowd, similar t othe one in which I would find myself. I never pondered whom was in the crowd or what was occuring among the spectators. I now have the answer....

...I have never felt the way I did that day in that crowd. In the beginning the population was subdued. My anxiety rose in anticipation of the president of Venezuela´s address. That anxiety would soon change form to fear and from fear to paranoia. Alcohol was poured faster than my sweat. Students acted without awareness of physical harm to themselves or others. They formed mosh pits and created human pyramids. The fall of the sun completed the eerie setting and the environment became ripe for the infilration of thieves. My bag turned from back to front. Money was transferred from pants to bag. My smile submerged, muscles flexed, and eyes fell from the stage to the people around me. My perspective was not solely based on intuition. I witnessed an obvious tourist get bombarded as a racket of youths pickpocketsd him clean in 7 seconds. My arm began to hurt from holding my bag so tightly. Yet, I would not allow myself to leave.

I should mention that after the rain started to fall, and after two hours of waiting, Max decided to depart the scene. I respect his ability to make the right decision for himself. I was chained to my interest in the speaker so as to put my health in jeopardy. Instead, he ate ice cream and watched Batman while I pondered if I had made the correct choice in staying.

These experiences are expressed and these observations made with a full heart for the people of the U.S. and Latin America. It hurt me to listen to Chavez and other leaders speak of and celebrate freedom while thieves permeated the impoverished and hungry masses of the crowd. The rhetoric of victory and accomplishment on stage did not fit the environment below (for that matter, nor did it fit the sentiment of the people we have encountered along this journey). The red shirt, blazing fists, powerful voice and words did not intoxicate me the way I had hoped. I continue to respect the fight of the Latin American leaders I witnessed. I just hope the words come to true fruition for my brethren amongst me in the crowd.

I arrived at the rally a proud U.S. citizen and left it even more proud of my country.

Finally, I want to recognize two Nicaraguan women I befriended. They helped me to survive the night. With 6 eyes rather than 2 we all made it safely home. Again, it is as if we were meant to meet. They represent in my eyes the true essence of the Nicaraguan people.

I grabbed a taxi as quickly as possible following the termination of the spectacle and reconvened with Max back at the hotel.