Montezuma, Costa Rica

Our last stop in Costa Rica appropriately involved two pacific coast beaches. We said goodbye to San Jose and headed west to what was rumored to be a fine example of all that is great about Costa Rica. Montezuma certainly turned out to be representative but not a change for the better.


I need to preface this entry by stating that being critical of ones experiences is a critical exercise in developing an understanding of the world. Likewise, recognizing what one dislikes can be as informative as recognizing preferences. Costa Rica in all of its beauty and reputation has not left an overwhelmingly positive impression. The country seems a bit lacking in identity. Maybe its because the country was granted independence by mail request rather than revolution, or then again maybe its the tourists. Visiting Costa Rica does not mean that one was exposed to Latin America or that one has ¨roughed¨ it. English is widely spoken, prices are comparable to America, and I never got sick on the food. In fact, the conversations I had with local costarricenes on the ferry were my favorite part of this segment of the trip; the new friends and waterfall were a close second.

Anyway, in getting to know Costa Rica, the travel between destinations is especially valuable. On our way to Montezuma Max and I trekked 3 Kms across the sidewalked beach of Puntarenas to the ferry. Through the midday sun, we arrived soaked from sweat and crossed to Paquera. (unbeknowst to us at the time, it would not be our last encounter with the ferry). Once across the expanse, we joined an Israeli couple on safari jeep trip to our shared destination. Evading tire-sized potholes while blasting Mexican norteño music, our driver drove us to the hostel like he was on the checkered lap of the Daytona 500.

Safe and off the rollercoaster ride, we had just arrived when Max and I realized we didnt have sufficient money for the stay. No ATM was to be found in the area of the town. We were informed we had to backtrack to Cobano, a town we passed. We viewed this as an opportunity to kill two birds with one stone - workout and withdrawl money. Although it was a beautiful run through rolling hills and jungle, we decided it was best for hydration sake to cab it back to Montezuma.

We ended the night drinking the local Imperial and Bavaria beer at the local club. Club-going folk are universal. Whether in New York City or Montezuma, CR girls believe they are movie stars and guys hover around them like vultures.

The second day was productive. In the late morning we hiked along a steep river bank toward the Montezuma waterfalls. Hopping on stones and through mud we eventually found the natural beast. I can recognize beauty in nature, but it must be an amazing sight in order to leave me in awe. The power of the falls did exactly that. I swam in the pool below while Max scaled the wet and slippery side othe mountain under the falls. He caught the attention of everyone in attendance and in mid-sentence of a discussion I had to kindly advise him to ¨get the hell down¨ without jumping. He jumped. He did so however from a lower ledge. I really could have passed the day away sitting in that hidden cove.

The day was completed by sitting on the sands of the rock beach and talking. A torrential downpour forced the hostel occupants into huddling under the canopied patio. We played cardgames and watched a DVD of some Bob Marley tribute.

Thats how we ended what we thought was our last night in Costa Rica.